The journey began at around 6 a.m. We reached Koteshwor at 5:19 a.m. and boarded "Ugrachandi Yatayat" for Phaplu. The fare from Koteshwor in Kathmandu to Phaplu in Solu was NPR 1500 per person. Along the way, we stopped at 2-3 places for snacks. Due to the recent floods, some sections of the B.P. Highway were damaged, making the road rough in certain areas. Picking up local passengers along the way, we traveled through Sindhuli, Khurkot, and Okhaldhunga before reaching Salleri. The journey offered mesmerizing views and thrilling roads, and we arrived in Phaplu, Solu district, around 5:30-6 p.m. in the evening. Solu turned out to be even more beautiful than expected — the houses, the roads, and especially the people there. We had a great time chatting with Chaudhary dai, the driver dai, and others in the vehicle. What made it even more enjoyable was that we traveled seated in the cabin of the bus.
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| Phaplu, Solu |
After reaching Phaplu, the bus stopped right in front of the hotel booked by the bus staff, which was Ram dai’s hotel. We took out our bags and gear while having a cheerful chat and entered the hotel. Ram dai’s hotel? It was likely named Phaplu Lodge and Hotel, but Ram dai, bhauju, and their son made us feel so at home that we didn’t even miss ours.
There were four tourists with us who had come for the Three Passes trek. Shortly after entering Ram dai’s hotel, we sat by the fire, sipping hot water, sharing memories, and listening to everyone else’s experiences. This is the joy of exploration—being social, sharing your stories, listening to others, and feeling that connection. It’s a feeling that’s hard to put into words.
Afterward, we had dinner and went out to buy some supplies—2-3 pairs of socks, a thermos, and 4-5 pieces of Hansaplast. With our purchases in hand, we headed back to our room.
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| Dudhkunda Trek Route |
Day 2
The next morning, we woke up early. Around 6 a.m., we freshened up, sipped hot water, and started our journey in Ram dai’s Bolero. My friend and I headed towards Takshindu, while the four tourists continued their journey to Paiya. After a drive of about 1.5–2 hours, passing through Ringmo village, we arrived at Takshindu.
Once at Takshindu, we stopped for breakfast. We had two plates of thukpa and two cups of salt tea and filled the newly purchased thermos with hot water before starting our trek. And here’s the highlight I almost forgot to mention—we had our first experience of Sherpa hospitality during this stop.
Their warm demeanor and impeccable behavior left a lasting impression on us. No matter how many questions we asked, their reactions never changed—they were always kind and welcoming. Seeing their genuine happiness made us smile, too. With these positive vibes, we began our trek from Taksindu.
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| Thukpa in Takshindu |
At one point, we got some network signal, so we made a WhatsApp video call to our family back home and shared the breathtaking views with them. It was a perfect start to our journey!
The trail from Takshindu to Kamu Danda on the first day was mostly uphill. We climbed steadily, taking short breaks, drinking water, and pushing ourselves forward. After a long hike of about 4 to 4.5 hours, we finally reached Kamu Danda, tired but happy, and checked into Numbur Retreat, run by Tshiring dai.
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| Numbur Retreat, Kamo Danda |
We were famished by the time we arrived, so we immediately asked Tshiring dai to prepare rice for us. Deciding to stay the night at Kamu Danda, we unloaded our heavy bags and relaxed. Lunch was served in the afternoon, and the simplicity of the food added to its flavor.
What followed was a delightful evening with Tshiring dai. Since we were the only guests at the retreat that day, we had plenty of time to bond. From about 2–3 p.m., we sat chatting with Tshiring dai, sipping hot water, and enjoying the serene atmosphere. Time flew by, and before we knew it, evening had fallen.
That night, we played cards and shared laughter before going to bed. The temperature had dropped significantly, so we wrapped ourselves in two thick blankets and had a peaceful night’s sleep in Kamu Danda, feeling content and rejuvenated.
(Note: After 11–12 a.m., the weather tends to deteriorate from Kamu Danda to Dudhkunda. So, if you want to enjoy the views or soak in some sunlight, make sure to wake up early in the morning.)
Day 3
After having tea and snacks, we said goodbye to Tshiring dai around 8:30 a.m. and resumed our journey toward our destination. The day began with a steep uphill climb, and after reaching a vantage point, we took a short break, admiring the majestic Himalayas.
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| 1 hour before Sano Beni |
The rest of the trail for the day was relatively flat. Walking along, we enjoyed the views of the mountains, the valleys below, grazing horses and mules, and small waterfalls formed by accumulated water along the way. After about two hours, we arrived at Sano Beni.
Descending 100 meters in altitude on the trail was enjoyable, but the subsequent steep uphill climb of 150 meters was exhausting just to look at. Slowly but steadily, we pushed through the tiring 45-minute ascent and continued our journey from Sano Beni to Saharsa Beni.
Despite the cold, we were warmly greeted at the Numbur Guest House, run by Tshiring dai’s brother, Kanchha dai. The guest house, only six months old, was still under construction, with work ongoing. While preparing food for us, Kanchha dai shared his future plans for the guest house, filled with vision and passion.
It was truly an eye-opening experience. It made us realize how much potential Nepal holds and, more importantly, how fulfilling it can be to pursue what you truly want.
Later that day, we tried Shyakpa (Sherpa Stew), a hearty local dish, while dodging the effects of the harsh weather. Sitting by the fire, we chatted briefly before having dinner and heading to bed.
The night was intensely cold, making it hard to fall asleep. However, the experience of being in such a remote and peaceful place overshadowed any discomfort, leaving us in awe of the beauty around us.
Day 4
The next morning, our journey to Dudhkunda began early at 5:30 a.m. Despite the early hour, Kanchha dai ensured we were well-prepared, serving us hot water and filling our thermoses before sending us off with his warm wishes. It was still dark outside, but the shimmering view of the snow-capped mountains illuminated by the faint morning light kept pulling us forward.
Locals had told us it would take around three hours to reach Dudhkunda, but we arrived just shy of that time. And what greeted us was beyond words—Dudhkunda Lake, so serene, so breathtaking, and so tranquil that it felt like we’d left the chaos of city life far behind.
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| Dudhkunda Lake |
We spent nearly two hours by the frozen lake, mesmerized by its beauty. The stillness of the frozen water, surrounded by the majestic peaks of Numbur and other mountains, created an unforgettable atmosphere. It felt as though time had paused just to let us soak in the magnificence of the moment.
The Dudhkunda Trek gave us an experience that will remain etched in our memories forever. Those two to three days of adventure, connection with nature, and the unparalleled beauty of the Himalayas made this journey truly unforgettable.
Around 11 AM, we started descending from Dudhkunda after having tea and snacks at Saharsa Beni. We had been ascending gradually as per our altitude gain plan, but today's journey was expected to be quite challenging. Our plan was to descend from Saharsa Beni all the way to Phaplu, and we did manage to reach there. Thanks to Ram Dai's assistance, we successfully made it to Phaplu, marking the conclusion of our journey.
Day 5
The next day, we boarded a vehicle at 3:30 AM and traveled from Solu to Kathmandu. That marked the end of our long and enjoyable journey, summarized in this short and sweet account.
Let's talk about the expenses we incurred:
1) Bus fare from Kathmandu to Phaplu - Rs. 1500 per person
2) In Phaplu, for two people, we paid approximately Rs. 1500 for one veg thali and one chicken thali including a room.
3) Jeep fare from Phaplu to Taksindu - Rs. 800 per person.
4) In Taksindu:
- One veg thukpa: Rs. 100
- Salt tea: Rs. 40
- 500ml Coke: Rs. 120
5) In Kamu Danda, veg meal costs around Rs. 750, but for non-veg, you need to order in advance. Our total expense in Kamu Danda was Rs. 5550, including a discount.
6) In Saharsa Beni, Kanchha Dai managed everything for us, and we paid around Rs. 6500. He didn’t charge us for phone charging and reduced the Rs. 3500 package to Rs. 2500.
(Note: Including all expenses, Rs. 20,000 per person will be enough, excluding additional extra costs.)
Note:
1) From Kamu Danda onwards, there is no electricity facility; solar power is used there. As the weather tends to worsen after 11–12 AM, conserve your gadget's battery and make sure to carry a power bank. However, there is no charge for using electricity if available.
2) At Saharsa Beni, mobile charging costs Rs. 300.
3) Pack protein bars, chocolates, Coke, instant noodles (chauchau), and dalmoth in your backpack. These items will not only satisfy your hunger but also helps to keep you hydrated.
4) Carry Flexon (for headaches) and medicines for altitude sickness.
5) Bolero jeeps from Taksindu to Phaplu are available until 5 PM. Save contact numbers of related people in advance.
Contact Number:
1) Kathmandu to Phaplu Bus Service:- +977 9843970848
2) Phaplu Lodge and Guest House (Ram Dai):- +977 9843389260
3) Numbur Retreat (Kamo Danda):- +977 9840916956, 9809425828
4) Numbur Guest House (Saharsa Beni):- +977 9841661786, 9709200610, 9841915531
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